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An skilled cook has traveled west and joined a group of fur trappers in Oregon, though he only finds true connection with a Chinese immigrant also seeking his fortune; soon the two collaborate on a successful business
stars Orion Lee
Directors Kelly Reichardt
genre Drama
Writed by Jonathan Raymond.
😂 jolene is so funny when I had bottle calves I just let them out in the yard all day and just put them inside at night 😂. They acted just like dogs. NOTIFICATION SQUAD. WHAt ONE OF YOUR ANIMALS Is ur favorite.
Free Stream first contact.
How I feel when I meet a girl: 0:10.
I knew John Howard and the true story behind this movie. This movie in no way represent the true facts that took place.
Easy to see why that bull's hanging with the cows and not in the freezer: low-line (short legs) and FATTTT brisket. So how long after a cow drops calf before she breeds back? I assume a few months, but this guy has access to the herd. Hmmm. Also, I assume you've chosen WHEN you prefer to calve based on pasture conditions? When do you prefer the next round to calve out, and why? Not being a jack-ass, just genuinely curious.
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You guys are the best.
0:52 Is that all stranger? Hehehe thank you...
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2:17 The mummy.
01:30 ALGUIEN SABE EL NOMBRE DE LA CANCIÓN.
This movie be like: “As you can see, I am not dead.”.
Dude at the end look at them boys down there. With they freaky ass 😹😹.
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The cutes thing i ever seen in my life 😍😍😍😍 (sorry for my english
Trump: let's have a WW3 Mistakes were made.
See these people who are happy and smiling? Then they go home and they eat meat, so they pay someone to kill these animals for them.
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This is a guide I put together mostly for newer players, but may contain some valuable information to veterans as well. It is written from the perspective of a console player on version 1. 06, but I would assume most of the information is applicable to PC. It focuses mainly on surviving the PVE survival aspects of the game, and is not PVP oriented, but may help you ensure that your character is always healthy and ready for any encounter. For a new player, I think everyone would agree that this game is unforgiving and has a tough learning curve. It has some complex systems that are not explained overly well, and often one mistake is fatal. I put together the below guide to hopefully help people survive. This guide focuses on managing 4 basic stats water, energy (food), blood, and health.. It will also discuss some of the primary reasons people fail to manage these stats mainly illness and hypothermia. Most of this info is available if you dig around on the internet forums and wiki, but I thought a guide that puts it all together might be valuable to some players given the number of “HELP!?!?! ” posts I’ve seen lately, mostly from new players. WHAT KILLS YOU? There is basically 2 ways to die in this game. If your health drops to 0 or if your blood drops below 2500. Health Damage: Direct health damage comes in many forms: zombie attacks, player melee attacks and gunshot wounds, animal attacks, falls, starvation, and dehydration are the main direct threats to your health. This should be obvious, but you want to avoid scenarios where you will take more damage than your Health Points can sustain. Blood Loss: You receive a relatively small amount of blood loss from direct attacks, but the primary cause of blood loss is from having bleeding injury. You will get a visual indicator, which looks like a cut, next to your hydration icon which alerts you that you are bleeding. Bleeding injuries can stack. While one or two is usually manageable, sustaining 3+ at once can put you at significant risk if you do not bandage them quickly. There are also different severities of bleeding injuries that can cause anywhere from 36 to 360 blood loss per minute. To my knowledge there is no visual indicator which tells you the severity of the bleeding injury, so a good rule of thumb is to assume it’s severe and bandage it asap with either rags or preferably a bandage. IMPORTANT: When it comes to your health, there is no “quick fix” to restore health points like many other games. The best you can do is maintain your other stats which will allow you to restore at max up to 4 HP per minute. So even in the best-case scenario, if you experience the worst possible injury and lose 99 HP, it will take 25 minutes to recover your health back to 100. If you fail to maintain your other stats it can take up to 100+ minutes to recover. So, it is in your best interests to properly maintain your stats to always be regenerating lost health and blood at the fastest possible rate. BASIC STATS: You have 4 icons in the bottom right of your screen which show your stat levels Water (Bottle Icon), Energy (Apple Icon), Blood (Blood Droplet Icon), and Health (Plus Sign Icon (+)) The game does not tell you how they are related, but it is helpful to think of them as a pyramid where Health is on top/Blood supports Health/Water and Energy support Blood. You want to build your character from the foundation up to make them a regeneration machine: Health Blood Energy & Water The reason they are organized this way is the following: Health regeneration is controlled by blood level: Minimum Regen: 2501+ blood = Less than 1 HP per minute Average Regen: 3750+ blood= 2HP per minute Maximum Regen: 5000 blood= 4HP per minute Blood Regeneration requires Energy and Water: Minimum Regen: 400-800 energy and 600-1200 water = 15 blood per minute Average Regen: 400-800 energy and 1200+ water = 30 blood per minute Maximum Regen: 800+ energy and 1200+ water = 60 blood per minute In summary, in order to maintain maximum regeneration capabilities, you always want your character to have at least 800+ energy, 1200+ water, and maximum blood of 5000mL. Maintaining these will always allow you to recover 60 blood per minute and 4 HP per minute. Now we will discuss managing each stat. ENERGY MANAGEMENT: The majority of “HELP!?!?!?! ” posts I see are about people having problems with starving to death. And yes, this can be a problem, especially in the early game. First off, lets talk about the stat itself. Your energy level is measured in kilocalories (Kcal). The energy stat minimum is 0. Once your energy drops into the red you will begin to starve and take health damage until you die or eat something. You start the game with 600 energy. Your maximum energy is 20, 000. IMPORTANT: YOUR ENERGY ICON IS NOT REPRESENTATIVE OF YOUR ENTIRE ENERGY RESERVES. When you think about it, you start with 600 energy and your icon is white and appears around 2/3 full. If you are lucky and find a few cans of food early, you can quickly fill your energy bar. At this point many players think “I’m full now” and stop eating and just hoard food in their inventory until their energy drops back into the yellow. DO NOT DO THIS. In the absence of numerical values on screen, I would estimate that your energy hud icon only shows you approximately 1000-1200 Kcal of energy, however, your maximum bankable energy is 20, 000, or around 20x what your energy icon shows you. This means that even though your energy meter appears to be full on your screen, you could hypothetically fill your energy meter 20X before you are actually full. For reference, a can of tuna is a somewhat common food item which provides 186 Kcal of energy. If you started the game with 600 energy, you could eat 104 cans of tuna before you would be full. Given the scarcity of food, it is virtually impossible to max your energy and waste food by eating it. So first tip, EAT EVERYTHING EVEN IF YOUR ENERGY BAR APPEARS TO BE FULL. By doing this you accomplish several things: 1) You ensure that you consistently maintain the 800+ energy requirement for maximum blood regeneration. 2) You free up more valuable inventory slots for gear, weapons, ammo etc. 3) You help boost your immune system (discussed later). 4) You don’t give your enemy extra food if you die What should I eat? BAKED FAT. Obviously when you start out you just want to eat whatever you can find. Once you have a knife, you want to look for sources of fat. Baked fat has 1575 Kcal of energy which is insanely good, and nothing else even comes close. In comparison the next best things are: Canned Bacon 548 Kcal Powdered Milk 496 Kcal Baked Cow Steak 350 Kcal However, the above items are few and far between, and the reality is that the most common other sources of food you find are much less effective. Normal canned food is 200 Kcal or less Raw fruit and veggies are 50 Kcal or less Raw mushrooms only 20 Kcal So baked fat is anywhere from 3x better than the 2nd best foods which are hard/random to find, and 78x better than mushrooms the least effective food which is more commonly found. Fat, on the other hand, can be reliably found if you know where to get it. Always bake fat as eating raw fat can lead to Salmonella, and baking gives +675 Kcals which is substantial. Where to find fat? On a low population server Find a knife Kill animals bigger than chickens. (Sheep, cows, hogs etc. ) Listen for animal noises while traveling. Butcher them and keep the Fat and steaks Build a fire and bake the fat on a long stick Animals spawn randomly so you may have to keep looting houses for food until you find one, but once you do you can build up your energy reserves significantly. ANOTHER FAT TIP: Dead players can be butchered and drop fat. On a high pop servers, there are usually bodies all over, and you will most likely have to kill another player in your travels. Human fat is the same as animal fat as far as the game is concerned. You can bake it and eat fat from humans without getting Kuru disease (Do not eat the Human Steaks unless you want to be a giggling cannibal). So, if you have a knife and kill a player or find a dead player, it is a huge payday in terms of your survival. You can survive comfortably with one baked fat for days, and then worry about other things. Yes, this is part of the reason why established players kill fresh spawns. They taste good. Food Prep: You can manipulate the raw nutritional value of food by cooking it. We will focus on Bake vs. Boil as the other options are trash. Baked Food= +75% energy value and -25% water value Boiled= +25% energy value and no change to water value For example, raw fat contains 900 Kcal. Once baked, it increases the Kcal value to 1575, or 1. 75x the raw value. This is the same for all cookable items. My suggestion: Don’t bother cooking fruits and vegetables unless you have the spare time, or have a several fruits/vegetables. Their base nutritional value is so low that it is not worth your time unless you are early game and desperate for every calorie, or you are a hermit in the woods with a farm and mass produce vegetables. BAKE ALL MEATS AND FAT. Don’t listen to people who say you should boil meat to preserve its hydration value, it’s bad advice. If you have the Izurvive map and plan ahead, water is limitless and on-demand. With proper preparation you will never be relying on your food to hydrate you. However, food is not as easy and you should maximize the energy value of the food you have. How should I eat? BINGE. Eat everything. Kill an animal, bake all the steaks and fat, and eat it all. The only caveat is that you do have a stomach limitation. Once you eat around 1500 Kcals of food at one time, you will get a stomach icon. At this point, STOP EATING, otherwise you will vomit once you reach 2000 Kcal and you will lose some of the energy and hydration that you have stored up. The stomach icon does not take long to go away, however, and you should proceed to eat all the food you have, only taking breaks when the stomach icon is visible. *It is okay to save some food for a stash in a container somewhere, but only do this after you have binged and stored up several thousand Kcals of energy and are comfortably above the 800+ Kcal. WATER MANAGEMENT: Water is relatively easy compared to food and should only be an issue in the early stages. Water pumps are located around the map and you will eventually find a water bottle, cooking pot, or canteen to store it in. Once you find a pump, you have an endless supply. The water stat itself: Minimum Zero to Maximum of 5000. You start with 500. If your hydration drops into the red you will start to lose health until you die or drink and/or eat something with hydration. You need to maintain 1200+ for maximum blood regen. IMPORTANT: SIMILAR TO ENERGY, YOUR WATER ICON IS NOT REPRESENTATIVE OF YOUR ENTIRE WATER RESERVES. It probably only shows you 1200, when you can max out at 5000. So just because the bottle icon appears to be full, you most likely are not actually full. How to drink? You guessed it.... BINGE DRINK! Find a bottle or cooking pot. If it contains water when you find it, go outside, and dump out the water by looking at the ground and emptying it. There is a risk that the water inside has cholera and will could get sick if you drink it. Sickness can be detrimental to managing your stats, and should be avoided at all costs. Take the container to a water pump, fill it up, and drink it. Repeat this process of refilling and drinking until you get the stomach icon. Note: You can do this with only your hands if you do not have a water container, however, it is significantly faster to fill and drink from a container repeatedly, than to drink with only your hands. Take a break for a minute to avoid vomiting and then repeat the process when the stomach icon is gone Only stop when you see an arrow icon alternating from up and down over your water icon. This indicates that you are truly full at 5000 water. This should take approximately 9 water bottles to achieve depending on your hydration level. Repeat this process every other day or so, or when a water pump is nearby on your travels. This will ensure that your water level is always comfortably above 1200, and you should never find yourself desperate for water again. Whats the best container? A cooking pot holds up to 2000mL, or 4 bottles worth of water. I takes up 12 inventory slots, however, you can place 12 items inside and still have it full of water and use it to drink. Eventually you can collect a gas canister and a stove, and keep all three items in your inventory without any net loss in inventory slots. This is a win/win situation and provides a source of water and a method of cooking when building a fire is not convenient. Canteens are arguably the 2nd best as they hold 1000mL of water (2x as much as a plastic bottle), and they only use 1 extra inventory slot. They are exceptionally good if you have a belt, as then they can be attached to your belt without penalty to your inventory slots. BLOOD MANAGEMENT: The best way to maintain your blood level is not to lose blood in the first place. Try to avoid getting bleeding injuries. Don’t engage zombies that you can avoid by sneaking past. Don’t engage hoards of zombies in melee combat if you can avoid it, rather pull them one at a time if possible. Get to a safe place if possible, to avoid damage from wolves and bears, and shoot from a window or on top of a vehicle. If you do get a bleeding injury, the priority should be to either eliminate the threat first (if you can do it in a timely manner) and then bandage OR if you cannot eliminate the threat quickly, retreat to a safe place and bandage, then return and kill the zombie or player. Use bandages over rags, as you can apply them faster. This is very effective when you have sustained multiple bleeding wounds. FAQ: I DON'T KNOW WHY I AM BLEEDING? If you find yourself randomly getting bleeding injuries while you are not in combat, you need to check your shoes. Your shoes wear over time and will eventually become ruined. At this point, you will sustain bleeding injuries. Always keep an eye on your shoes and either carry a spare or carry duct tape to repair them before they are ruined. FAQ: WHY AM I PASSING OUT EVERY MINUTE? If you sustain a severe bleeding injury you may notice your blood meter go completely empty and blink red. This indicates that you're blood has dropped into the range of 2500-3000. At this level your character is receiving shock damage due to your low blood levels. The shock damage causes you to pass out. Once you regain consciousness you are given 60 seconds of shock immunity until you pass out again. This will continue to happen until your blood levels reach at least 3000. If you have been keeping your energy and water levels high, this can last up to 8. 5 minutes. However, this can last significantly longer if you have low water or energy, this can take 2x-4x longer to recover from. Eat and drink whatever you have in your inventory if you are unsure if your water and energy levels are high enough. This is a good time to use a blood bag or saline bag if you have them (discussed below) Recovering Blood If you can keep your energy and water high enough it will take approximately 41 minutes to regain all your blood from 2501, which would be the worst possible blood loss you can survive. There are also two items that can help in recovering blood. A blood collection kit can be combined with an IV start kit to create a blood bag. When you are healthy and have some down time, you can collect your own blood into a bag to save for later. If you find yourself in a dire situation with significant blood loss, you can administer the blood to instantly regain 500 blood. This will save you approximately 8. 5 minutes in regen time while you try to get back to 5000 mL. Be sure that you are using your own blood, or blood from a compatible donor or you will get extremely sick from a hemolytic reaction. If you have the slightest doubt about whether or not the blood bag is compatible with your blood type, do not use it. Also you can combine a saline bag with an IV start kit to administer saline to yourself. Saline gives you 120 mL of blood per minute for 3 minutes, or 360mL total after 3 minutes. This is essentially double the max recovery rate of normal blood regen, and stacks with your normal regen. So while it does not give you the instant 500 that a blood bag does, it does not require you to compromise your own blood supply in preparation like a blood bag, and has no risk of making you sick if a mistake is made. All in all, these two items can help you recover faster, however, the most effective thing to do is ensure that you are keeping your energy and water levels high at all times so that you are always maintaining that 60mL blood regeneration per minute. HEALTH MANAGEMENT Your maximum health is 100. Minimum is zero at which point you die. As stated before, there is nothing that you can do to instantly recover health, but if you manage your energy, water, and blood as outlined above you can ensure that you are recovering health as quickly as possible at 4 HP per minute. Understand that attrition is a real issue in this game, and any injury you receive will take some time to recover from. You want to try and make good decisions and avoid taking health damage whenever possible. Master killing zombies effectively without taking damage and avoid engaging them when you can. The goal is to be at maximum health at all times since you never know when a significant threat is just around the next corner. If you are constantly running around with 50HP, you are significantly easier to kill for opposing players. ILLNESS Until you understand how illness mechanics work in this game, you may often find yourself getting sick and not understanding why. Unfortunately, the mechanics behind it are somewhat obscure, and they are not always easy to figure out simply by playing the game. The main reason illnesses kill you is they can cause a faster than normal loss in your hydration and/or vomiting. A player’s natural reaction to the hydration or energy loss is to drink water or eat, but if you drink or eat too much while you are sick you vomit. Vomiting causes an even greater reduction to both hydration and energy, and unless managed properly you will eventually die of dehydration or starvation. u/runnick made an amazing guide on understanding the mechanics of infections here: I highly recommend that anyone who plays this game give this a read. I won’t reiterate everything in this guide, but just provide some key takeaways I got from the guide and from discussing with u/runnick Key Takeaways regarding Illness: Try and keep your Water, Energy, Blood, and Health levels as high as possible to make your immune system as strong as possible. If you get infected, only take small sips of water and small bites of food to avoid vomiting at all costs. Continue to do this as often as you can, as increasing your energy and water levels could potentially boost your immune system high enough to fight the disease naturally (if its Cholera or a disease with lower potency). In my opinion, Multivitamins are the best illness-fighting medication in the game. They boost your immune system strength for 5 minutes, and therefore will cure all diseases, other than Kuru (Don’t eat human steaks). If you are sick and have multivitamins, pop one every 5 minutes on cool-down and you will eventually cure the illness. You can also preventatively take a multivitamin prior to doing an activity that would normally infect you like drinking from a lake or eating raw meat and ensure that you have 5 minutes of immunity from infection. Tetracycline is also good, and will knock out several diseases faster than multivitamins, however they are not effective against Salmonella. If you only have inventory for one medication, hang onto multivitamins at all costs. Avoid the following to prevent infection: eating uncooked fat & meat (Salmonella), eating human steak: cooked or uncooked (Kuru), drinking unclean water from lakes/ponds/streams/rivers or unpurified canteens/water bottles (Cholera), drinking with bloody hands from a well pump (Cholera). Additionally, disease transmission between players can occur while sharing food or water with an infected player. Wear gloves whenever possible. Wearing gloves gives immunity from worrying about bloody hands. Your gloves are not capable of being contaminated, so there is no need to disinfect them with alcohol or disinfectant spray after butchering an animal. You can butcher an animal with gloves, then drink from a bottle or pump, or eat food without removing your gloves without risk of infection. If you don't have gloves you need to wash your hands after butchering an animal or player prior to eating or drinking anything. This can be achieved by the following: 1) Using any water container (bottle, canteen, cooking pot, jerry can (containing water)) or a can of soda. 2) Washing at a water pump 3) Washing in a pond or river Water containers themselves cannot be contaminated, therefore there is no value in using alcohol tincture or disinfectant spray on the bottle. Only the water inside the bottle has the potential to contain cholera. This can occur from filling a bottle from a lake/river or finding a full bottle in the environment. You can either dump out the water in the container and fill at a pump or use chlorine tablets to purify the water to avoid cholera. HYPOTHERMIA Hypothermia is also a common issue which causes people die. Hypothermia has two effects depending on how cold you are: Energy Loss and Health Loss. The most severe cases can lead a loss of 9 Health and 18 energy per minute. While the health loss can be problematic with severe hypothermia, usually the main problem is that people cannot find enough food to eat in order to offest the constant energy loss, and eventually starve. The normal temperature ranges in Dayz do not seem to fluctuate much, but it does get colder at night. Typically, if you throw on any combination of shoes, pants, shirt, and hat you will have enough insulation to prevent you from experiencing hypothermia. Each piece of clothing provides an insulation value, and some are better than others. However, in my experience, as long as you cover your body with dry and intact clothing, in normal conditions you should not get cold. You can tell if you are at a normal temperature if the thermometer icon on your HUD is white. If you see the thermometer turn blue, this means you are too cold and experiencing the effects of hypothermia. Hypothermia usually happens from any of a combination of 3 different issues. You aren’t wearing enough clothes. If you take off your pants and jacket, you will notice your temperature drop. Easy fix is to make sure you wear clothing. Your clothes have become damaged/ruined. Your clothes wear over time from getting damaged by players or zombies. As this happens, their insulation becomes less effective. If the item becomes ruined, it will still be attached to your body, but will not provide you with any insulation. It is important to hang onto repair items and occasionally repair the items back to “Worn” status. Periodically check your clothing, and repair as needed. If you allow a piece of clothing to become ruined, you will no longer be able to repair it, and will need to find a replacement. You are wet. This is the main culprit because it rains a lot. You do not get hypothermia from the rain itself, but if you are wearing clothes that are not water proof, they will gradually become “Wet”, “Drenched”, “Soaked”. Soaked items are essentially the same as wearing ruined items in terms of insulation, as they do not provide your character with any insulation. As a fresh spawn in the rain this can be devastating as you start relatively low on energy which requires you to scavenge for food. However, traveling in the rain leads to compromised clothes, which leads to hypothermia and rapid energy loss, and eventually starvation. Some standard options are to run quickly from building to building and occasionally put your clothes in your hands and wring them out. This can get your clothes back to “Wet” status where it still provides you some insulation. Another is just to camp out in a house and wait out the rain. None of these options are particularly desirable. A better method people use is cooking meat (Animal steaks, human steaks, fat etc) and keeping it in their pants or jacket. These pieces of meat provide heat to your body and can completely counteract the lack of insulation from your clothing if they are ruined and/or wet. This is a good method which I used for a long time, but not the best in my opinion for three reasons. 1) Meat can be hard to find early game, so it isn’t a reliable strategy in every play through. 2) If you are trying to get your energy stats up, you will want to eat the meat you find as opposed to keeping it as a heat pack. 3) Meat is relatively bulky, and depending on the steaks you have, it will take up valuable inventory slots. Sidenote: Heat packs can be found in hunting areas and essentially do the same thing. However, they heat less than a piece of meat at 100 celsius and take up 4 slots. Overall, heat packs suck and should not be used unless you are desperate. The best (and somewhat cheesy) strategy I have found is to find a knife, shovel, or pick axe ASAP. This will allow you to dig up worms. Dig up three worms and then start a small fire with sticks and a rag. Place all 3 worms into the fireplace and wait until they are ruined and say 100 celsius. Now place the worms in your pants and jacket, and they will continuously provide enough heat to counteract any lack of insulation you have whether your clothes are wet or ruined, and only uses up 3 inventory slots. The heating effect is permanent, and the worms will not lose the effect over time. If you ever get too hot, you can rotate a worm or two into your backpack, as it will no longer heat you if it is not in your pants or jacket. Thanks to u/Asmondian for bringing this tip to my attention.
This is actually to where i'm from we just recently experienced is actually.
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Oh, adventurers! I wasn't expecting we'd have any out of town guests right now. Please, come in, come in. Welcome to Phandalin, though you came at a pretty awful time. Did you not hear? There's a dragon around! It seems to have caused a lot of problems around here for us. Our little mining town is situated in a fairly precarious location. The dragon seems to be roosting in the mountains to the South, and there's all sorts of orc activity going on in the woods to the North. Since you made it all the way here without issue, maybe you'll be able to lend us a hand. Warning While this is also set in Phandalin, it is not a "starter" adventure. I would not recommend this for new DMs to learn to play. While I find this adventure to be far more fun than The Lost Mines of Phandelver, it is far more advanced. As an experienced DM, the first time I ran this adventure, I did it blind. I did no prep at all and had a group of friends who agreed to play for me despite this scenario (so that I could test how well the adventure stood on its own feet). It was very easy to run. Most of everything is easy to parse and the sections are sorted alphabetically and formatted so beautifully that it made running with 0 prior knowledge a breeze. I did have 3 player deaths during the adventure though. That being said, if you wish for this to be your first adventure, please keep in mind that you don't have to play monsters optimally. Don't use their strongest attacks against your level 1 players. Each section tells you the appropriate level for your party, so it's a good guide on how much you should hold back or not. That being said, if you want to play this as your first DMing experience, you can. Don't let my words scare you away, just keep them in mind as you run (unless you want people to die! That works too, you do you! ). I would recommend Lost mines as your first DMing experience, but I love both adventures and you'll have fun either way! The Hook There is no published hook. Neverwinter is still recovering from a disaster, as such, Phandalin has apparently become some sort of hub for adventure due to all the goings on nearby. The book goes into details about the surrounding areas, and you're free to use or ignore as much as you want! TL;DR: You are going to Phandalin because you're adventurers and there's adventure to be done! The good thing about this adventure is that there isn't really a story, you can run this as good, neutral, or evil players and still just have fun. This adventure's biggest hook is how fast you get to level 6 so that you can leave Phandalin and never come back!... unless... there's a reason to. In Part 1, a lot of things went down in Phandalin, and a lot of names will be familiar to you during this adventure, but it seems that these two adventures are completely independent of each other. There are no direct ties from one adventure to the other, and there isn't much that puts this adventure before or after Lost Mines. So, for this part, we're going to completely ignore that Lost Mines exists! (P. S. Another "hook" of this adventure is that it's written to be run for 1+ players! The module tells you how to scale according to the amount of players you have! ) The People Apparently Phandalin is a pretty rockin town right now. There are plenty of people in town, but they aren't all happy go lucky. Phandalin was once an ancient mining town, but due to the recent dragon outbreak, many people are stuck inside for their own safety. NPCs: Inside Stonehill Inn, many people gather to talk, gossip, and drink. Here is a great place to recruit some sidekicks! The built in sidekick system is great, it provides you with a bunch of real characters like Pickled Pete the lovable drunk, or Donnabella Fiasco the magic user wearing a unicorn mask "because it makes her feel more magical. " Why are they here? Which ones ARE here? You have a lot to work with, and they can add a lot of fun and flavor to your world, and those are just the premade ones! Toblen Stonehill: He runs the Stonehill Inn, but he moved here from out of town. He came here to prospect, but discovered he was much better at inn-keeping than mining. He can tell the players rumors that he's heard, but outside of that he plays no roll in the adventure, so use him as you deem fit! (Maybe he can give you the lowdown on some sidekicks? ) Elmar Barthen: He runs the general store. He apparently has 2 young clerks (Ander and Thistle) who help him out. He doesn't do too much, but he can tell you rumors, and once again, is a great tool to use as a DM. Linene Graywind: She runs the Lionshield Coster, the only place you can get the good stuff. She'll sell you weapons and armor, but only if she doesn't think you'll cause any trouble with them. Once again, she can give you rumors, but most of all she is your best chance of buying/selling items from/to your players. You get quite a few magic items, so maybe she'll offer to sell them for you for a price? Halia Thornton: She runs the Miner's Exchange, where miners come to get their hauls appraised and whatnot, she also handles a lot of the records for claiming streams and such. Nobody is making it rich, but quite a few people make a living off of panning in the nearby streams. She apparently is part of the Zhentarim, an evil faction looking to take over the north. She thinks she can take over Phandalin if she can recruit enough people who rely on her. It's a fun thing to use if it fits your game, and she could easily be your contact point in an evil campaign. She isn't used much in the actual adventure though, so go nuts. Harbin Wester: He's the townmaster who writes up all the quests on the quest board. He's a fat and cowardly man, refusing to open the door for anyone, speaking through the door instead. The players can ask him about quests, and he'll answer, but even when it comes time to pay, he'll pay them 1 gold at a time under the door. He's one of my favorite characters in Phandalin because an incompetent townmaster means so much. How did he become townmaster, and how does he remain townmaster? Lots to play with, very little he does has to do with the adventure outside of supplying quests and paying for them. Talos: Evil god of storms. Now, it says he's evil, but if you're in a storm, you pray to him to not fuck your shit up. Apparently there's a secret cult of his worshipers starting shit in the area, but they can't really do too much because they don't want to get eaten by a dragon! See, the dragon is a GOOD thing... right? The Area There is SO MUCH to do! Not only are there many places to go due to quests, there's places only found by listening to rumors and places that lead to places. There is a lot to take in. Hopefully, this section can be your Mapquest of the Sword Coast. EVERYWHERE: So, a mechanic of this adventure is found in the "Where's the White Dragon" section. Every time you feel like it (default is to roll any time you leave an area) you can roll on the table to see if the players encounter the dragon in the wild. The dragon looks for easy meals and will run away if it takes basically any damage. The players should never be able to kill the dragon. It will NOT land, it's just looking for food, not a fight. If there's any animals with the dragon, it will just pick up the animal and fly away. Use this as you see fit. Gnomengarde: Located less than a day South East of Phandalin, this is by far the easiest quest to start with. A bunch of crazy gnomes live here, and their king has apparently gone crazy. As the gnomes live their crazy gnome lives, some of them have gone missing. They probably just ran off to do crazy gnome stuff, but the king believes something else is up. Apparently a shapeshifter is behind the disappearances, and he refuses to leave his room since he can't trust anyone. The gnomes will give you the magic items you came for if you help out their king. P. The shapeshifter is a mimic, so if your players are level 1, please don't use its bite attack. I crit with 2 nat 20's with disadvantage, instant death. Dwarven Excavation: All you have to do is go to these ruins and tell the dwarves that a dragon is around and they should seek shelter. Buuuuuuuuuuuuut, they offer you magic items to stay and help them clear out the dungeon since it's full of slimes. Now, this isn't too difficult, but the slimes split if you slice or shock them... Also, once you decide to leave, a warband of orcs decide to attack. If your players are too weak from fighting the slimes, just skip the orc part, cus YEESH, that's a lot for level 1! Umbrage Hill: All you have to do is go 5 miles south to reach Umbrage Hill and tell and old lady to come to town where it's safe. WHAT COULD GO WRONG!? Well, apparently a manticore beat you there to eat the old lady. Well, a party of level 1's can fight the manticore (who will wreck them) or they can pay off the manticore to gtfo. After your party pays off the manticore, the old lady refuses to come with you, but good news! You can buy healing potions from her with the no money you have because you paid off the manticore! Well, when you get some money and levels, maybe you'll come back and buy potions... and get revenge? 2 of the 3 above quests should be completed before moving on to any of the areas below Triboar Trail: The Triboar trail is quiet... too quiet... The dragon flying around has kind of made everything too afraid to be out in the open. Connyberry: A ruin of a town long ago destroyed by barbarians. There's nothing here outside of a bit more cover should you need to camp out for the night. Butterskull Ranch: This quaint little ranch is run by "Big Al" Kalazorn. Apparently it was raided by orcs not too long ago. You head over to check things out. The adventure starts when you make it to Connyberry. Between Connyberry and the ranch you'll find various animals. Some horses and a cow can be rescued (or used as a dragon distraction) and brought with you to the ranch. They are branded, so it should kind of be obvious. The rest of the adventure is ran fairly straightforward, just remember that YOU get to decide where to place the orcs (I suggest placing some in the basement with Al). The rewards are nice, especially if you save the cow. Also, a butterskull is pretty cool, or at least it's tasty. Loggers Camp: There isn't much to this one. I would force players to arrive from the east, or else choose where you place the bad guys. This is probably the weakest quest of them all. There isn't much to do, and another Wester means another asshole to deal with. Feel free to modify this quest however you want, there's nothing to lose and only the quest reward to gain. There's a weird boar encounter you get on the way, and that's kind of nice, but it's also just weird (which is also kind of nice). Mountain's Toe: This gold mine is less than a day northeast of Phandalin. Don-Jon Raskin is a badass who would like an escort to the mine (really, look up this guy's pic/stat block, I love him). When you get there, you're done the quest, but there's so much more to be done... As is, the mine is a pretty boring quest, but wererats are not something you want to get bit by, so it's not a bad quest by any means. You can be diplomatic or go on a killing spree, up to you. I'm not sure which is better. I just hope you don't let Don-Jon get infected T~T These are from rumors: Shrine of Savras: You can do this quest at any level! There's an old shrine overrun by orcs and ogres. There is apparently a secret stash of gold there for anyone willing to find it. Also, the altar scene is pretty nice, it's so raven. If the party happens to find the gold, they'll be rolling in 2, 500gp! Of course, as the DM you can decide how much money they really get since you could say that the treasure isn't 100% gold, or maybe there's a service fee. Up to you, I just gave them the 2, 500 and they bought plate! Tower of Storms: This is probably the first time you'll run into some REAL Talos shit. There's some shipwrecks that are easy enough to see from the coast, and there's apparently treasure in them (there is). Well, the town of storms is currently... storming. There's a lot of fun stuff with a crab and a shell and some guy who can't die and lightning... just read it. It's really fun. You also get lightning powers should you be brave enough to touch the lightning altar! DONT' DO THESE BEFORE YOU'RE LEVEL 4! FINISH THE SECOND TRIO OF QUESTS BEFORE PUTTING THESE ON THE BOARD! THEY ARE HARD! Axeholm: Less than a day south of Phandalin stands an old dwarf fortress. Maybe it'll be a good place to hide from a dragon. Go there, kill stuff, find hidden treasure. Another straightforward quest. Dragon Barrow: Fuck yes. Gravedigging a dragon slaying sword? Yes please. This is such an interesting quest, but also it's a quest that spawns a quest, but we'll come back to that when we get to the Circle of Thunder. Once again, this is a great quest. Just read it and play it. You get a skeleton horse too! Falcon's Hunting Lodge: Falcon is a cool guy. You go to him to start the Woodland Manse quest. He'll let you stay at his lodge for a bottle of wine, or maybe he'll just let you stay because you're on your way to the manse for him. He'd love to go with you, you won't find a guy who likes killing orcs more than Falcon, but he's got to defend the lodge. Don't worry though, maybe he'll get a chance to fight after the Manse is done eh? eh? Wink Woodland Manse: Did somebody say TPK? The woodland manse is full of bad guys. FULL of bad guys. If you have a few fireball spells then you can make quick work of a lot of this adventure, but without some strong AOE, you'll be having a hard time. This part lets you stealth it or go full rambo. It's fun, and despite the map not being horribly big, there's a LOT to do. Once you're done here though, you will probably head back to Falcon's and rest. When you wake up, guess who you pissed off! Talos guys attack you with A THUNDER PIG! Thunder pig is a good fight, and you're fully rested, so nothing quite gets you ready for killing a dragon than killing a god avatar pig thing. And falcon knows how to serve up bacon real good. Circle of Thunder: Fuck man, this shit. I don't even know. It's a bit crazy and weird. It really hammers in the whole Talos cult thing. This is where the cultists go to summon the thunder pig. I would probably just skip this because fighting the thunder pig after the Woodland Manse quest is so much better. However, that's my opinion and not a fact. There's a lot of treasure to be gained if they do take on this quest, so do as you feel is right. Icespire Peak: While you can technically find the Icespire Hold any time you know its location and go then, you probably want to do the quests so you have enough items/money to make the dragon fight easier. Also, if you already defeated the dragon through other means (like the random encounter + earth bind) then there's no real reason to go here. If you don't know where it is, the book gives you two nice little events to add to the game. It's not a deus ex if the players think it's natural! Anywho, on the way to Icespire Hold, there's a fun little random encounter with an ogre in ice, then you get to climb a precarious slope up to the Hold where the dragon sleeps. He is asleep, so don't wake him OK? Well, you're not the only group there, there's some people hoping to steal from the dragon (wow, killing them is doing them a favor if they're that stupid) that you'll have to deal with. Don't wake up the dragon while you kill them though, cus the roof is full of ice and you're fucked if you think you can fight out there without being able to get a sneak attack off first. Once again, a 4v1 dragon fight is super easy, so run the dragon however you like to make it more fun. Default lore says that white dragons don't even speak, they're mostly just bestial, only knowing rage and greed, but fuck that. If your players want to talk to the dragon go for it, who cares. Finish off the dragon and well... gg! Epilogue So, you beat the dragon, completed the quests, pissed off some cultists, and now you're ready to celebrate a job well done! Well, yes, but also no. Remember how it was quiet and all the issues around were happening because there was a dragon and stuff? Well now that the dragon is gone, there's a big void of terror that is just begging to be filled. This is a great start to any other adventure because there's not too many loose ends. "But Conrad, this adventure didn't even have a story, that's why there's not many loose ends, " I hear you say, and yes, you're 100% right. If you're looking for story, you might remember the little thing about the Talos cult. Well, they had all that power while a dragon was terrorizing them, think of what they can get up to now! This adventure doesn't actually end until level 12. Part 2 of the Essentials Kit quests is Storm Lord's Wrath. You actually get a story, one that is closely tied to this adventure. While I did not enjoy Storm Lord's Wrath personally, there's a lot of stuff there to love about it. Honestly, my biggest issue with SLW is that it wasn't as clean and neat as DOIP. I still have yet to continue to the 3rd or 4th parts of the kit's adventures, so there's plenty more out there for you. And what if you also don't like Storm Lord's Wrath? Well, there's plenty of stuff to continue with. Maybe a green dragon sees that there is no longer a white dragon in the area and decides to make his roost in Thundertree. Maybe the Zhents follow some ambitious dwarves to a secret forge of spells hidden deep in the Sword Mountains where the dragon no longer lives. If these ideas excite you, then you should be hella excited for PART THREE OF THE TOURIST'S GUIDE TO PHANDALIN! Thank you for reading my wall of text, and see you next time. Part 1:.
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Reporter: Jefferson Beavers https://twitter.com/Jeffresno
Biography: chicano/pocho/literato, communication specialist at @FresnoStateMFA, advisory board at @FresnoFilmworks, 2x alumni of @Fresno_State, husband to @traftycracy